Our World – Underwater Scholarship Society in Europe

 

Deciding you like somewhere before even stepping foot out of the airport has to be a good sign. Many people had told me that Sydney is not your average city. Many non-city people had told me Sydney was one of the few cities they really enjoy. And for those city lovers who visit Sydney – I would imagine they leave feeling a tad disappointed with their home city.

 

Not being a city person myself I was intrigued by Sydney and what it had to offer an outdoor loving scuba diver. Making my way out of the airport I passed whole families clad in boardshorts and exited into the blissful sunshine. I was immediately content having left a bitterly cold Scotland a mere 24 hours earlier. Christine, my great friend and a Sydney local, greeted me at the airport and whisked me off into the heart of Sydney. In less than 10 minutes we had arrived at a stunning coastline – golden beach after golden beach unfolded in front of my eyes. As we continued with our drive I was amazed at how lush the city was. Trees line virtually every street in Sydney and great expanses of parkland are not hard to come by. Runners, cyclists and surfers were buzzing around everywhere, either heading toward or coming back form the beach. I had been in Sydney for a matter of hours and was already hooked. Clearly Sydney had plenty to offer me.

 

I was here thanks to an extremely kind and exciting invite. Jayne Jenkins, the OW-USS Australasian coordinator, and her husband Colin had invited me to spend Christmas and New Year in Sydney – with diving planned throughout. As the next two weeks unfolded I celebrated Christmas on the beach and witnessed the famous New Years Eve fireworks illuminating Sydney harbour in a display that would certainly impress the keenest of pyromaniacs. In amongst all the festivities I was able to dive a collection of super sites, with Jayne and her fellow local experts seeking out all of the best creatures Sydney diving has to offer. What’s more, being in Sydney meant I could catch up with OW-USS friends, as well as and be introduced to an array of interesting and helpful people.

 

My first dive in Sydney was a cracker thanks to the sharp eyes of Nick Missenden Being able to spot a tiny camouflaged creature in poor vis is quite a skill. It took me a while to tune my eyes into the delicate and intricate form that is a Pygmy Pipe Horse (Idiotropiscis lumnitzeri). At first I was blindly trying to get a shot of this miniature organism – Nick had found it amongst a sparse patch of seagrass, but it took me a while to single it out. Eventually I was able to make out the subtle sweep of its body and the delicate dorsal fin. Then the tiny but sharp black eyes emerged from what otherwise appears to be a floral component of the sea floor. I.lumnitzeri is one of three Idiotropiscis species found in Australia, but I.lumnitzeri is endemic to New South Wales and was discovered as recently as 1997. Few divers are fortunate enough to spot the Pygmy Pipe Horses. Even many local Sydney divers are yet to find one. I was delighted to witness such a unique animal in Sydney waters. Despite being a city of over 4-million people, and boasting one of the World’s busiest harbours, Sydney is home to an array of remarkable marine creatures.

 

Indeed my second dive in Sydney brought with it my first ever sighting of a Seahorse. I was diving alongside Jayne and Aengus Moran – who took to the water only after ensuring his partner Laura, who was due to give birth that day, was not actually in labour! The dive site was Chowder Bay – one of Sydney’s many beautiful beach inlets. Stretching out beneath the jetty at Chowder Bay is a net, which provides a habitat for an assortment of sponges, small fish and invertebrates. Despite having dived on many reefs and in many countries, seahorses remained elusive to me.

 

Sydney is not surrounded by coral reefs. It is a temperate environment influenced by the continental shelf and the East Australian current, which bring nutrient rich water and tropical species respectively. As such, many endemic species inhabit Sydney waters, the White’s Seahorse (Hippocampus whitei). As Aengus guided me around Chowder Bay he spotted many seahorses; their tails meandering around the net, acting as anchor in the gentle surge. With my Light and Motion housing in tow I was able to gather footage of the seahorses as we made our way along the net. Stopping to film the seahorses made me realise these are characterful little creatures and they certainly kept me amused as we surfaced with a dive time pushing 90 minutes (the baby had not been born in these 90 minutes).

 

I was to return to Chowder Bay a few days later with Chris Miller – a freelance videographer and photographer and one of Jayne’s longstanding dive buddies. Jayne had arranged for Chris to help me out with a number of my photography and videography skills and he proved to be an invaluable help. Taking to the Chowder net for a second time I had my Olympus Pen camera set to underwater macro mode in preparation to get some snaps of the charming seahorses. Chris and I notched up another 90-minute dive as we spent our time finding and framing the critters. Being able to dive alongside great underwater photographers such as Jayne and Chris is a huge help: being able to surface from a dive and bounce off a number of questions, or sit down and discuss the shots and how they could be improved, means I am much more aware of how to shoot when underwater.

 

Not only did Chris help me with my underwater photography, he also showed me how to set up a time-lapse on-land. A morning spent taking hundreds of pictures of a scenic waterfall in the Australian bush was followed by an afternoon of editing the stills into a moving image. I am still to learn much of the more technical side of photography, and although I like playing around with images in photoshop, I definitely benefitted from a Chris’s tuition in the more serious and precise nature of editing.

 

Chris was one of many of Jayne’s friends who made my stay in Sydney both enlightening and fun. Another of Jayne’s dive buddies, Dave Thomas, spent an afternoon teaching me how to strip down a reg and service it. Too often I am caught out when it comes to explaining the more involved mechanisms of a reg to an inquisitive diver. So it was a super help to see Dave remove all the key parts of my TUSA regulator, explain what each part was for and how it worked, then reconstruct the reg.

 

When it came to Christmas morning Dave, Chris, Jayne and I all took to the water, this time at Shelly Beach. The beach was bustling with santa hats and barbeques as we set up our dive gear. The conditions for this dive were pretty poor, but I was still able to have another first encounter – this time it was a Woobegong. Wobbegongs are Carpet sharks – harmless bottom dwellers found in the eastern Indian Ocean and western Pacific Ocean. Even though the visibility wasn’t great and the surge was giving us a good swing we had a super post dive snack to look forward to thanks to Jayne – Champagne and mince pies on the beach, accompanied by sunshine.

 

Christmas day in Australia was great. Many people from home like the snug atmosphere of a winter Christmas, but I loved the party atmosphere and outdoor orientated nature of a summertime Christmas. Plus Jayne put on one of the best Christmas lunches I have ever had. Gorgeous salads and seafood was a real contrast to turkey with all the trimmings and perfect in the summer heat. Of course I will always love my mum’s Christmas dinner, but when in Australia you have to do as the Australians do!

 

Australians certainly know how to do Christmas and New Year well. As I ran along the Manly beachfront on Boxing Day there was still a real holiday spirit in the air and the beach was full of people celebrating the festive season. The more time I spent in Sydney, the more it was growing on me. That evening Jayne had prepared another delicious meal as it was also Colin’s birthday and we had the pleasure of having Ron and Valerie Taylor for company. I have never listed to such fascinating stories over dinner. Ron and Valerie are a charming and enthralling couple. Hearing about their experiences whilst filming Blue Water White Death; dining with Royals; working alongside some of the world’s most famous actors and travelling to some of the world’s most remote and primitive locations was captivating. When you are young and trying to forge a career for yourself in the underwater world it is extremely valuable to spend time with people who have accomplished great careers in an underwater-related field. Ron and Valerie are pioneers of the underwater world. They prove that through hardwork, creativity and plenty of daring you can have a successful underwater-related career, and one that is very effective in publicizing the importance and vulnerability of the oceans.

 

The ocean is a huge part of life for so many Australians. Being someone who loves every aspect of the ocean it was great to be in a country where it forms such a prominent part of everyday life, whether that be through work or recreation. I was fortunate to spend a lot of time out on Sydney harbour during my stay. One of my trips out onto the harbour was on a Pilot boat. Colin is a pilot on Sydney Harbour and on this day he was taking a large cruise liner out. Jayne and I rode on the Pilot boat as it shooed away the little yachts and motor boats that dared to venture into the path of the immense ship as it proceeded toward the open ocean.

 

I had never properly contemplated how Colin would get off the cruise liner once he had the ship safely out of the harbour– but I was about to find out. It has to be one of the most fascinating things I have ever seen, and perhaps one of the most extreme. As the miniature pilot boat pulled alongside the mammoth liner, both boats set a coinciding pace. The liner loomed above us and if boats could intimidate one another this was it. Three men stood at a little hatch in the side of the ship, the scale of which resembled a single lit window in a skyscraper. As I looked at the rope ladder the three men were holding I realised this piece of twine was to be Colin’s vital link between the two boats. Indeed a few minutes later he appeared at the hatch. As the pilot boat jostled at the side of the liner the ladder was thrown down and Colin made his way from one boat to the other with evident ease. I sat on the pilot boat in a state of complete unease as the scene unfolded in-front of me.

 

One of my more relaxing experiences on the harbour, but just as impressive, was the New Years Eve fireworks display. Moored in the middle of the harbour and surrounded by hundreds, if not thousands, of other boats of varying shapes, sizes and colours, our boat from Prodive dive centre staked its claim to a good spot. Jayne and I watched the Sydney skyline ignite. It was hard to fathom the scale of the display as the harbour bridge and the majority of the cityscape exploded in colour. The most famous fireworks display in the world didn’t fail to impress. It seemed a fitting end to what has been an amazing and life changing year for me.

 

I will never forget my time in Sydney. Jayne and Colin pulled out all the stops and showed me the best Sydney has to offer. When the conditions were too poor to dive we had no trouble filling our time. Catching an open-air movie while overlooking Sydney harbour was unforgettable, plus a trip to the zoo meant I wasn’t going to leave Australia without seeing a Kangaroo! And of course Maisie the Jack Russell always enjoyed a walk along the beautiful Sydney coastline.

 

As I steadied myself in the water column – ensuring my buoyancy was precise and my bubbles near non-existent – I homed in on the static but distinct target. With the sling of my spear pulled tight and poised for a breakneck speed release I moved ever closer to the striking Lion Fish. With its flaring red and white striped body and its poisonous spines looming nearer and nearer it was time to deliver the deadly blow.

 

The phrase “epic fail” would be most appropriate here. As I released the spear with what I thought was force, I saw it dodder towards the Lion Fish’s head and eventually strike the rock face in front of this rather obvious and stationary target. To add insult to (what was clearly not an) injury, the Lion Fish didn’t even bother moving out of the way after this near miss.

 

Excuses regarding my poor ability to kill what is an invasive species in the Caribbean included: “jeez, they’re a lot faster than you think huh”; “I can’t line myself up in the right position, the reef is in the way” and “it’s escaped to the back of the hole, I can’t get in there”. They soon waned and morphed into a simple: “I’m pretty crap at this eh!”

 

Despite my attempts at spearing Lion Fish being feeble, luckily Ocean Frontiers dive centre has a medley of more experienced and deadly hunters on hand. Ocean Frontiers is based in the East End of Grand Cayman and was established back in 1996 by Steve Broadbelt. Since then the dive centre has gone from strength to strength, and today Ocean Frontiers would be better described as a small and personal dive resort. The majority of the divers I met during my stay were repeat customers who were staying in the lovely self-catering condos. Everybody raved about their experiences with Ocean Frontiers and it became clear to me that a combination of magnificent diving, well planned and smoothly run dive days, very personable and helpful staff, and an overall enthusiastic, energetic and cheerful ethos is what keeps people coming back for more.

 

What’s more, Steve takes the environmental and conservation side of running the business very seriously. For example, the hot tub is run via the air-conditioning in the condos and the Lion Fish eradication program is high on Steve’s list of priorities. Hence me joining the mission to rid the Caymanian reefs of as many Lion Fish as possible.

 

Spearing Lion Fish may sound a bit severe and morbid, but the Lion Fish are having extremely detrimental effects on reefs throughout the Caribbean and Western Atlantic. First spotted on the Caymanian reefs as recently as 2009, it is alarming to see how widespread and abundant this voracious predator has become since their introduction. There are many theories as to how they came to be here. It is likely that they were introduced into the Atlantic a couple of decades ago by way of the aquarium trade. A combination of an abundant food source and no natural predators in these waters has resulted in Lion Fish being able to rapidly expand their niche throughout the Caribbean and Atlantic. Where Lion Fish populations are large the reef can experience a 90% reduction in native fish species and this predation upon native species is perhaps the most devastating impact of their presence. As Steve told me: “for each Lion Fish you do manage to kill, you will be saving five other fish today.” So despite my spearing skills lacking accuracy, my few successful attempts were actually making a small difference.

 

Although the long-term effect of the Lion Fish invasion is a contentious issue, the majority of theories point towards the need to eradicate this invasive species. Thursday at Ocean Frontiers is Lion Fish hunting day. Guests have the choice of partaking in the dives and joining the dive staff as they hunt for the Lion Fish. While the staff members take to the water with spears, the guests help to spot the fish and collect them into buckets. The sea quickly becomes a chorus of shakers and tank bangers as the fish are spotted hiding in the dark recesses of the reef. Divers keenly wave their guide over to fire the fatal blow. Some of the Ocean Frontiers staff members are highly skilled hunters. Boat captain and dive instructor Sean managed to land a haul of over 20 Lion Fish in one dive! In total 96 Lion Fish were landed that day, which is an impressive but worrying total.

 

It is very interesting to see the contrast in Lion Fish numbers between the frequently dived sites and the infrequently dived sites. At the sites regularly visited by the staff and their spears very few Lion Fish are to be found. However, when moored at a seldom-visited site the number of Lion Fish is incredible. Diving at such a site on one particular day, along one of the many stunning walls of Grand Cayman, I was overwhelmed by the abundance of Lion Fish. The guests were constantly pointing here, there and everywhere as they spotted Lion Fish after Lion Fish. It is fascinating to witness the behavior of the Lion Fish: you can approach some with your spear pointing directly towards their head and they won’t even flinch – with no natural predators they evidently haven’t learned predator avoidance behaviour. However, some of the Lion Fish have obviously had previous spear encounters. As you approach they swiftly swim deep into their reef escapes, where a spear doesn’t have a chance of even tickling them. This makes a successful first attempt with the spear pretty crucial – another reason my track record was so poor. Frustratingly, the majority of the Lion Fish hang out around a depth of 30m – so bottom time is limited and you have to ascend while waving your fist at the lucky ones you’ve had to leave behind.

 

The fact that the frequently dived sites have a noticeable reduction in numbers, and this reduction seems to be persisting, is a major positive. It is a strong indicator that eradicating this species via spearing is working. Undeniably the problem is too big for spearing alone to work. Nonetheless, the entire island, and indeed the wider Caribbean area, is becoming ever more aware of this issue and the need to do something about it. As awareness increases I have no doubt that more measures will come into play and more people will join the effort. On top of this, Lion Fish make for a very pleasant meal. Following the Thursday hunt at Ocean Frontiers the unlucky Lion Fish are whisked off the boat and straight into the expert hands of Jodie – Ocean Frontiers resident cooking aficionado.  Wrapped in a tin-foil parcel the Lion Fish are grilled over the BBQ in Jodie’s delicious marinade. The fish can be found on many menus throughout the island and with a profitable incentive such as this surely more people will begin removing Lion Fish from reefs throughout the Caribbean.

 

When you are on the hunt for Lion Fish your diving style completely changes– you disregard all the other cool stuff as you home in on every nook and cranny, torch primed and spear hidden – just incase the clever ones spot it. Your vision becomes entirely attuned to red and white stripes and when you do spot one you enter the “zone”. When I started dreaming about hunting Lion Fish I knew it had all gone a bit too far.

 

To ensure I didn’t become some crazed huntswoman I interspersed my Lion Fish dives with spearless pleasure dives. The East End of Grand Cayman has the most stunning walls and swim-throughs I have ever encountered. I have never seen anything like it. Diving along a channel that resembled a grand corridor with its soaring walls on either side I meandered my way through. This coral lined passage eventually opened into the vast blue expanse – I swam out across the abyss and turned round to see an immense wall in front of me. I am always extremely inquisitive as to what is lurking below me in the cavernous depths as I hover at a measly 30m. A militia of monster Lion Fish most likely. You could spend hundreds of dives exploring the swim-throughs and walls of Grand Cayman and forever be amused.

 

Spending two weeks on Grand Cayman was definitely one of the most entertaining and fun-filled experiences of my scholarship so far. A combination of spectacular diving and super company meant I was always on the go and having a great time. So often the best scholarship experiences are all down to the people you meet. The staff at Ocean Frontiers were all extremely welcoming and despite long working days there was always time for a trip to the local beach bar at the end of the day. And arriving in the midst of the annual Grand Cayman Pirate Week Festival meant that rum was a statutory requirement.

 

Every so often during this scholarship year I experience something extraordinary, something I know will stay with me forever. Without doubt, one of the most poignant experiences of my year so far has been spending a week with an individual who can easily be described as a credit to the diving industry. Diving alongside a lady who is one of the most distinguished and assiduous individuals within diving was incredible. With sharks galore, exquisite caverns, and a great dive buddy I had an unforgettable week.

 

Cristina Zenato has lived and worked in the Bahamas for 17 years. During this time Cristina has built up an extremely admirable dive career through sheer hard work and passion. Well recognised as a shark diver, Cristina’s career and interests stretch far beyond these sleek creatures. She is one of only two cave diving instructors to be found in the Bahamas; is a keen and influential conservationist; and holds instructor ratings with PADI, NAUI, SSI and SDI to name but a few! Cristina can also speak five different languages and her yoga talents are astonishing. Upon joining Cristina for one of her yoga classes I was to discover I also had astonishing yoga talents. Astonishing for all the wrong reasons. As Cristina balanced on one arm, her entire body in the air – no joke – I looked like a bewildered eejit (Scottish word for fool).

 

With all Cristina’s talents – plus the fact that she is making a very prominent mark within the diving industry, as well as the wider underwater industries – it is no surprise that this year saw her inaugurated into the Women Divers Hall of Fame. Having the chance to join Cristina for a week was a special opportunity. I was rather nervous upon arrival – star struck you might say. However, as my week progressed I discovered Cristina is one of the most humble, genuine and supportive people I have ever met. As a young female in the process of being expressly launched into the hub of the diving industry I can think of no better mentor than Cristina.

 

Cristina was keen to show me as much as possible during my week on Grand Bahama. As the Dive Team Manager at UNEXSO dive center, based in Freeport, Cristina ensured I was able to fill my dive log with awesome dives. Joining the daily dive trips, personal shark feeding dives and completing a cavern course (and don’t forget the two extreme yoga classes!) all made for an action packed week in the Bahamas.

 

Being back in the Bahamas was great. In 2007 I spent five months here and during this time I became enthralled by diving and realised it was going to play a significant part in my life.  Upon returning to this jovial island nation the familiarity of the reefs; the breezy conifer lined beaches; the taste of conch fritters and the sound of the local music all evoked great memories. Having dived in many different places since 2007, the Bahamas has remained my favourite reef destination. I never knew if this was because it’s where I first discovered diving: perhaps it was just the novelty factor and awe associated with my first reef dives making me recall them so admiringly?

 

No way. Descending for some camera practice I was immediately greeted by healthy sized groupers and snappers patrolling the reef, while endless gorgonian sea fans extended their wide grasp across the collage of soft and hard corals. Vibrant blue chromis decorated the coral heads in their orgaised schools while the bold Damselfish defended their algae gardens with their characteristic vigour. Eels were to be found meandering their garish heads from their lairs and the squirrelfish were ogling back at me from their reef dens. This is what I remembered: lively reefs bustling with activity and a wonderful array of species.

 

Considering I was on the reef with UNEXSO’s resident camera expert to learn some photography skills with my Olymus Pen setup, I had an endless supply of photo opportunities. As Eddy Raphael taught me how to successfully use my strobe – which has always baffled me a little – I was eventually using it effectively. I came to appreciate the transformation in my subjects and how much I could enhance my photos before going anywhere near photoshop.

 

An additional highlight to the Bahamian reefs is the likelihood of an exciting visitor showing up. Sharks frequent the waters of the Bahamas in abundance and this country boasts one of the healthiest shark populations in the world. Generating upwards of $78 million dollars in dive-related tourism each year, the Bahamian government have recognised the value of these vulnerable creatures and banned all commercial shark fishing in territorial waters – a step up from their previous ban on longline fishing 20 years ago.

 

Sharks have made the Bahamas a renowned diving destination and it was super to see Cristina has developed a shark-feeding program at UNEXSO wherein the wellbeing of the sharks remains top priority. Taking years to develop and taking into account every last detail such as location, timing, safety procedures, knock on effects and feeding techniques, UNEXSO has established one of the most reputable shark feeding dives in the world. While diving with Cristina it is evident her respect and appreciation for the sharks is why she has managed to develop such a successful and unique affinity with these often-misunderstood animals. As the reef sharks literally swarmed around me, often knocking my camera with their tails tips – and at times fully bumping into me as they couldn’t contain their excitement at the prospect of a hand delivered meal – I watched on as Cristina fed the sharks dressed in her famed chainmail suit.

 

It is hard to stress enough how uninterested the sharks are in you as a person – especially when you are not the one dressed in the chainmail with a bucket of fish in your hand. I can remember the feelings of trepidation I had before my first ever shark dive back in the Bahamas in 2007. What I remember more vividly, however, is how much my attitude towards sharks shifted after completing the dive. When you dive with sharks you begin to understand them. You watch their powerful bodies effortlessly gliding through the water and you can’t help but admire rather than fear them. The more time you spend in their presence the more you realise their behaviour is entirely focused on the prospect of food. Using movement and smell to detect their prey the sharks know what they are looking for. It is definitely not you. And when the sharks do bump into you it is completely accidental. After all, if Mulberry handbags were going free in Selfridges – being waved in the air to heighten customers’ awareness to this awesome deal – you would be hard pushed to find a lady who would be considerate enough to mind those of you who get in the way of her and that handbag. In-fact, that situation would be a lot more dangerous than a shark dive. I for one would have my elbows out and sprint on.

 

Speaking with Cristina about the subject of shark feeding was extremely interesting. It is undoubtedly a contentious issue, and rightly so. Too many dive centres do it without sufficient planning and a complete disregard towards the knock on effects. Indeed I have often been disappointed when what is supposed to be a wildlife encounter turns into a petting zoo. I came to realise during my time with Cristina that when done well – with ample forethought, preparation and huge respect for the sharks – it is a great tool for increasing shark awareness. The majority of people enter a shark dive with feelings of fear, but then surface with an appreciation for these endangered animals and hopefully an awareness of their current plight. As with so many conservation issues, education is key. Cristina is more than aware of this and as such the UNEXSO shark-feeing program is geared towards educating divers and making sharks a valued underwater encounter.

 

I do still believe nothing compares to a chance encounter with a shark during a dive. Despite not having the exhilaration associated with being surrounded by dozens of over-excited sharks, the beauty of seeing a shark in the blue makes you appreciate your place in the world. Yet Cristina has made me appreciate shark-feeding dives a great deal more than I did previously. I have learned their value and place within the diving industry and I do consider shark-feeding dives a vital element in the fight for shark conservation.

 

After a few days spent with the sharks and gaining more insight into the shark-feeding industry Cristina and I moved inland. Cristina offered me a spot on her Cavern Course, and having been spellbound by my experiences in the caverns of Northern Florida and the Dominican Republic a few weeks earlier I immediately said yes. My fellow student on the course was Erin – a lovely lady from New York City. Together we made it through the blind line navigations and ascents successfully – only becoming muddled in our line a few times!

 

Looking beyond the line I could see these caverns were incredible. Again, the novelty of the experience captivated me as it had done previously – it is so different from an open water experience. Diving into Ben’s Cavern and Mermaids Cavern I was overtaken by what I can best describe as artistic grandeur. Magnificent rooms with striking hues of blue and green streaming in from the cavern opening made focusing on my line laying skills pretty difficult. Despite having to focus on certain tasks I still found there to be a complete serenity to these dives. With piercing visibility and water so still it almost appears as if it isn’t even there, I was once again transported into another world.

 

Many people view caverns as eerie and disconcerting places, which is easily understood considering the darkness and more confined environment compared to ocean diving. For me the darkness increases my curiosity. Using my torch as a guide I lit up the different stunning features of the caverns, being awarded small snippets from a grand scene. I enjoyed having to explore and discover what the cavern had to offer, rather than seeing it all laid out in front of me. I appreciate the tranquility of cavern diving: a feeling of peacefulness and detachment from “normal life” takes over.

 

With one of the World’s most elite instructors guiding me I had two great days getting aquatinted with the basics of cave diving. Indeed the entire week was excellent. Not only was I able to partake in some of the most exciting and beautiful dives of my life, I was also able to learn from Cristina. What Cristina has taught me about diving, as well as life in general, is immeasurable. I know I will continue to follow Cristina’s guidance well into the future.

 

Three years ago a team of underwater archaeologists from Indiana University, led by Dr Charles Beeker, made a remarkable discovery in the shallow Caribbean waters of the Dominican Republic. The discovery: Captain Kidd’sQuedagh Merchant.

 

In 1968 while Captain Kidd was in command of  the Blessed William, he came across the Quedagh Merchant –an Armenian merchant ship carrying a lavish supply of precious metals, materials and food-stuffs. Kidd seized this lucrative ship believing it would be ample compensation for his late return from a mission to rid the Indian Ocean of pirates. By 1699 and while in the Caribbean – thousands of miles from where the ship was captured along the West Indian coastline, news reached Kidd and his crew that a Royal Warrant was out for their arrests for acts of piracy. Kidd headed to New York in a small sloop – the majority of his valuable loot onboard – confident he could clear his name. The crew Kidd left safeguarding the Quedagh Merchant ended up scuttling the ship, setting it ablaze and casting it adrift. Perhaps they were wary of their new tags as pirates and wanted to rid themselves of any evidence? Funnily enough, in true pirate style, they removed all the remaining valuables before letting the ship go.

 

308 years later and a matter of meters from the jagged shore of Catalina Island Dr Beeker and his team found the abandoned Quedagh Merchant. Today the site is declared as a Living Museum of the Sea. Divers and snorkelers alike can glance back into history as 17^th century artifacts including canons and anchors are to be found scattered amongst the great colonies of Elkhorn coral and the lively fish of the otherwise typical Caribbean reef.

 

Dr Beeker and his team have worked tirelessly to turn this site, and other archaeologically significant sites found along this stunning coastline, into Living Museums of the Sea. Dr Beeker was keen to have all three scholars on board with his Living Museums project and needless to say Anthea, Christian nor myself needed much persuasion to head to the Dominican Republic! Over five days we worked with Dr Beeker and a super team of volunteers from the United States Peace Corps. The support of the Peace Corp team is admirable and crucial. With their local knowledge and links to the communities they have the know-how to make this project work at the local level, which is an extremely important aspect in any project such as this. With this great team for company, our days were spent making and securing new marker buoys; making general site assessments; and completing a biodiversity study at one specific site.

 

As my time on this idyllic island progressed and I spent more time underwater at the Living Museum sites I became ever more impressed by the work being done here. The main intention of the Living Museums of the Sea Project is to preserve and protect these precious sites. Making these sites no-take and no anchor zones means these remarkable insights into history are protected, and the biodiversity of these sites is given a chance to thrive. What is more, the sites act as valuable tools for eco-tourism. While diving the Quedagh Merchant site to research the recruitment of species on the canons, we surfaced to find a “pirate ship” laden with tourists that were on a day trip to the site. Stories of swashbuckling pirates are always a good tourist draw and this is undoubtedly a great opportunity to unite the exciting history of pirate adventures with the need to preserve both the artifacts and the reef. The key to conservation is often education and it is wonderful to see Dr Beeker pursuing this route via the Living Museums of the Sea Project.

 

Indeed our biodiversity study was intended to act as an educational tool for future visitors. We chose to focus our efforts on a specific anchor located at a site artificially created using canons and anchors from Dominican wrecks. We noted the location and size of the different recruits on the anchor, which included star corals, brain corals, sponges, anemones and tube-worms. By creating a template of the anchor and its recruits it can now be monitored for new species, lost species, species growth, disease and other scientifically relevant indicators. In addition, divers can learn to identify these species and transfer this knowledge to other sites during monitoring studies.

 

It was promising to see such a diverse array of recruits on the anchor and the size of some of the hard corals would suggest they are thriving on this artificial reef. In addition, the canons at all the Living Museum sites had a healthy collection of recruitment species and small reef fish were constantly darting around. The interpretive plaques Dr Beeker’s team installed at the sites were being used as nurseries by Sergeant Major fish. The Sergeant Majors were very defensive of their sprawling purple broods: they certainly didn’t hold back when charging at our masks! As we spent more dives investigating these sites it was evident that Dr Beeker’s plan to protect both the treasurable history, and the equally as treasurable ecosystem, is working.

 

Once our work securing mooring buoys and studying reefs was completed we were fortunate enough to have time remaining to dive Padre Nuestro – a cavern on the outskirts of Bayhibe town. Dr Beeker was eager to show both the Peace Corps team and us scholars Padre Nuestro as a few years previously his team discovered faunal remains dating back thousands of years within the cavern. During the dive briefing Dr Beeker explained how he would show us some of the remaining bones, but once in the cavern I found myself spellbound by its majesty and I went off in a little Erin dive trance. I never saw any bones, but I can tell you that stalactites and stalagmites project from the ceiling and floor, and when these magnificent features are combined with the whiteness of the limestone and the scattering blue hues of the light, the cavern makes for a magical setting. The draw of cave diving is becoming ever more prominent in my mind.

 

My five days in the Dominican Republic made for an unforgettable experience, despite rum featuring significantly. Dr Beeker was an extremely generous and enthusiastic host. I rarely meet someone who works as tirelessly and devotedly on a project. It is great to see the project is flourishing thanks to both Dr Beeker’s drive and the strong support he receives from the Peace Corps, university students, academics and local Dominicans. I have no doubt the Living Museums of the Sea Project will continue to expand and become a valuable resource for the Dominican Republic.

 

I have never felt more like a foreigner in my life. Throughout the duration of my stay in Florida my mind was flabbergasted by everything. As Anthea, Christian and I travelled the length of the Sunshine State in Christian’s monster truck my eyes grew wider by the day. A combination of extraordinary beautiful landscapes; free refills on coke and coffee; buzzing cities full for Ferraris; and some incredible diving, made for a unique and unforgettable few weeks.

 

Scotland and Florida have their differences. The phrase “you’re not from here are you?” was banded around a lot. It was that obvious. As I tried to explain to Christian – being Scottish means I never learned to integrate being eaten by an alligator or poisoned by a snake into my daily routine. When I learned alligators were chilling in virtually every body of fresh water I came across I was suddenly very attached to the inside of Christian’s monster truck.

 

What’s more – free refills don’t exist in Scotland. Back home if you want more coffee you have to buy more coffee, and so naturally I made the most of this super American deal. Constant refills into gigantic cups meant we never got very far along the “highway” before I had to request a stop…

And another thing –when you come across a Ferrari in Scotland it is something to pass comment on. You go in for the “lets pretend this is mine” photograph. Well Ferraris in Miami are like kilts in Edinburgh. All the locals pass them by unnoticed while the tourists clamber round to get a good look and a snap next to the novelty. As we drove towards the everglades one morning my head was spinning after whipping it round countless times to follow each Ferrari as it sped by. “There’s another, and another, and another, oh I like the blue one……”

 

Then came Walmart. Anthea and I were amused for hours upon entering the boundless store – it could have been a daytrip in itself! As Christian wondered around in a confused daze, us two foreigners ran around Walmart like – well – foreigners. While Anthea was taking care of her Reese’s Pieces addiction I was off touring the electrical department for adapters and a camera bag. The amount of times I had to ask the shop clerk where to find everything the poor lady may as well have given me a guided tour of the store.

 

But of course we were not in Florida to chart an expedition around Walmart, we were here to dive, to meet fascinating people and to visit some of the World’s leading marine institutions. I have to say a huge thank you to Christian. Without his forward planning, knowledge and contacts our road trip would not have been nearly as spectacular as it was. From our first dives in the caverns of Northern Florida, to our tour around the Golden Shadow in Miami – he made everything happen for us. And he put up with two girls for three weeks!

 

Our road trip began in High Springs in northern Florida – the home of GUE, Halcyon and Cave Diving. Over three days Anthea, Christian and I dived in three stunning caverns including Ginnie Springs, Orange Grove and Troy Springs. We were lucky to be the only divers at the caverns and the conditions were perfect. I have never experienced diving like this. The colours, light and visibility together were connotations of tranquility. The Northern Florida cave system is famous for its high-flow, yet you wouldn’t have known it. Together the conditions made for very peaceful dives. I thoroughly enjoyed spending time idling around in the caverns and finding nooks and crannies to investigate. Contemplating the extent of the vast North Floridian Aquifer and its labyrinth of cave systems that stretch out for miles around was quite an overwhelming thought. I can appreciate the draw of cave diving – there is a mystery and intrigue surrounding what you cannot see but know is there.

 

During our final day in High Springs we visited the Halcyon factory. Ken Charlesworth, Sales Manager at Halcyon, gave us a guided tour of the factory. This proved to be very interesting for me. Since receiving the scholarship I have become aware of Halcyon and its high-standing reputation for making robust, well-designed and purposeful dive gear. I am currently using my Halcyon backplate and wing for the majority of my diving in an attempt to become more accustomed to it. By using the wing frequently I am hoping I can overcome my issues with the trim position and using clips. Subsequently I hope to be prepared to take on a technical diving course in the near future. I have a big appreciation for Halcyon gear and getting the opportunity to see where the factory was super. It was somewhat surprising – you don’t think of a small-town factory when you think of Halcyon. Yet this is exactly what it is. Nestled in a small industrial estate, the factory employs just a few dozen local people who design, construct, test, organise and ship what is some of the world’s most resilient dive gear.

 

Leaving the quaintness of High Springs behind, the monster truck rolled into motion again and we headed south. We stopped briefly in Gainsville where we were given a guided tour of the Ichthyology department of the University of Florida. I have now seen enough preserved fish in glass jars to last a lifetime. We decided to walk down to the lake to try and find some alligators. You may think this lake was off the beaten track, but no, the lake in which these dinosaur lookalikes were chilling was right by the main road. There is a “sidewalk” running parallel to the lake and students walk and jog by without a care in the world. Nobody was swimming though.

 

From Gainsville we made our way to Fort Lauderdale. Christian had arranged a tour around the oceanography department of Nova Southeastern University courtesy of his friend Jeremy Kerr. If this tour taught me anything it is that I have no idea where I am headed at the end of my scholarship year! As our tour progressed we met a vast array of academics, all of whom were working on specific and intriguing projects. From coral dating to shark population studies, each and every project had a purpose, a need to uncover more, and a place in the grander scheme of things.

 

Although this tour made me question where my future is headed, the beauty of this scholarship is just that: I am questioning my future because of the remarkable opportunities I have been exposed to. These opportunities are full of realisation. The realisation is often unanticipated, but I’m relieved it’s there.

 

All serious thoughts were swiftly brushed aside upon arrival into Miami. In this perky city full of Ferraris, and Chihuahuas in “pushchairs”, we continued with our Floridian adventure. We began with a tour of the Golden Shadow, which despite being intended as a logistical support vessel for the even snazzier Golden Odyessey, it mainly functions as a research vessel for the Living Oceans Foundation. Christian had joined a research cruise on the Golden Shadow back in June and as we happened to be in Miami while the ship was berthed here his friends on-board invited us along for a tour.

 

The Golden Shadow is the research vessel Steve Zissou longed for: a gym, a coffee-maker, racing boats and a recompression chamber all come as standard. Needless to say I thoroughly enjoyed my tour (cappuccino in hand) around the plush boat as it bobbed self-righteously between the skyscrapers.

 

America is often conveyed as a country full of mega-cities, sprawling highways and fast food joints. Yet a few miles out of Miami you enter a wilderness shaped by fire and water – The Everglades. Within this national park, which covers over 1.5million acres, lies just a fraction of America’s incredible countryside. Cars and McDonalds are few and far between. Instead alligators, spiders, birds, turtles, and butterflies line the boardwalks and roadsides. As we drove through miles of lush green wetlands it was incredible to think this important ecosystem is thriving on the doorstep of one of America’s busiest cities.

 

The following morning saw the end of our Miami experience as we boarded a flight to the Dominican Republic (separate blog). But this was not the end of our Florida road trip as 5 days later we again took the running jump that is required to successfully board the monster truck. Key Largo, home of Captain Slate, was our next destination. A weekend spent diving with Captain Slate proved to be a whole lot of fun. Despite some torrential downpours we managed six great dives, the most memorable of which was the Christ dive. I knew I was going to see a statue of Christ on this dive, but I never knew it was going to be huge! Following the reef around I turned the corner and holy moly – there he was in all his 9ft splendor and glory. He made for some great pictures. The rain didn’t even put us off having a BBQ and I can repot Slate’s barbequed chicken and his cookies and ice cream dessert are both worth a visit alone!

 

 

After a weekend diving in Key Largo the monster truck rumbled back towards the north, taking us to Orlando for DEMA 2011. As far back as April I knew I would be attending DEMA. Nevertheless, the 2^nd November and the first day of the show seemed to come around incredibly fast. I found DEMA to be a terrific experience. Being surrounded by dive industry professionals and enthusiasts meant I had a productive, informative and fascinating four days. I was able to reconnect with friends and sponsors, and I was able to meet an array of new and extremely interesting people. What’s more, my drysuit sponsor Whites provided me with a pair of dry gloves, also known as a godsend. GoPro provided all of us scholars with one of their nifty Hero cameras and the three of us were also extremely privileged to receive a print from Pascal Lecocq himself. And I managed to win the Liquid Image Grand Prize as part of their raffle – a mask with an inbuilt camera and accessories to boot. My advice for any dive show attendee – enter every single competition, the odds are good.

 

Heading to DEMA I was already in a very contemplative state of mind with regard to my future. After meeting people from every corner of the dive industry – media, science, travel, equipment, exploration – my options and subsequently my pondering have increased yet again. Undoubtedly, however, DEMA confirmed the dive industry is for me. You often hear how this industry is tough and I am aware that it is. But DEMA proves you can still make a successful and happy career within this unique industry. Attending the DEMA Awards Evening as guests of Dan and Betty Orr from DAN made me appreciate this industry and how much reward can be gained from hard graft. It was a true privelage to watch both Fraser Bathgate and Peter Hughes receive their DEMA Reaching Out Awards. Both of these men have made extraordinary contributions to the industry and prove more than anyone why it is such a worthwhile industry to be a part of.

Neoprene or membrane? No: It’s a White’s Fusion Bullet…

 

Established back in 1956, Whites was the first company in North America to produce drysuits. Today, Whites produces what can easily be described as some of the most innovative and distinctive drysuits on the market. The Fusion range – including the Bullet, Sport and Technical – was launched two years ago. Thanks to the range boasting an array of remarkable features it is extremely popular with an assortment of divers. The most notable feature is the use of materials granting a level of flexibility previously unknown to drysuit divers. Indeed Fusion suits are in demand from many recreational, professional, commercial and military divers.

 

The Fusion range features DryCORE technology, which Whites describe as offering “the ultimate in mobility, warmth and streamlining”. This inner DryCORE layer is a light-weight but resilient shell. An over-suit made from flexible fabric fits neatly over the top, making for a streamlined and stylish suit. The extent to which these suits stretch is evident when you see an empty suit:

 

A light-weight drysuit that can be easily compacted into a small bag is very beneficial. It makes my life as a travelling Scholar a lot easier. Many people are dubious about the level of warmth and robustness a lightweight suit can offer. Having dived in both the Fusion Sport and the Fusion Bullet, taking them from Northern Scotland to Southern England, I have put these suits through many challenges and I can report they are both warm and robust.

 

From 6°C-17°C, neither suit has faltered. From my GUE Fundamentals course – which requires a lot of maneuverability – to my HSE Scuba course – which involves a lot of scrabbling around on the bottom – the Fusion suits have been infallible. Not only was I able to move freely and comfortably, I was also warm and dry on every dive. I wouldn’t hestitate to say using a Fusion suit was the reason I managed to pass the GUE course. Having to reach my tank valve in any other drysuit I have worn would have been impossible.

 

Another great aspect of these suits is their adaptability: they make for a perfect summer suit, and a perfect winter suit. Because they are are both stretchy and streamlined you can go all out and pile on layers of thermal protection, or you can go with minimal thermal protection. The Fusion suits will happily deal with either extreme.

 

Throughout my summertime UK diving tour I was using the Fusion Sport, which I had kindly been leant while my Bullet was en-route from Canada. Diving out of Weymouth harbour in a drysuit on a hot day could make for one sweaty diver, and a somewhat damp drysuit. However, with merely my Fourth Element Drybases acting as my undersuit, I didn’t overheat as I kitted up for the dives. What’s more I was pleasantly surprised to find I remained warm for the duration of my dives. Alternatively, when descending to the deep and mysterious depths of Vobster Quay, the water temperature drops to 6°C. In these colder conditions all it took was an upgrade from my Fourth Element DryBase to my Fourth Element Arctics to keep warm.

 

After then spending the majority of September in Egypt, where wearing a drysuit would most likely kill you, I returned home to Scotland to find my Fusion Bullet waiting for me. Bypassing my mum in the hallway I stormed upstairs and into my room, where I knew my family had stowed the latest arrival! Needless to say I left my mum a little disgruntled in the process. Having never owned my own drysuit this was a big deal for me, and I like to think my mum understood my impatience when I emerged from my room proudly displaying the sleek Bullet.

 

It was time to test the Bullet. I returned to what has become my equipment testing ground – Orkney. Taking the Fusion Bullet to one of the most northerly islands in Scotland was a challenging test. With the water temperature at 11°C (the air temperature no doubt colder), and a lot of time spent on a rain and windswept deck or shore, conditions couldn’t be more perfect for testing a drysuit. Even so, the Bullet battled its way through effortlessly. It refused to let me shiver despite my dives being slow-paced and in excess of 50 minutes. When it came to milling around on shore/deck it was comfortable – no excessively tight seals and no restricted movement. While in Orkney I learned how to dive with a twin-set. As I had discovered during my GUE course, the flexibility and maneuverability of the Fusion suit meant I accomplished what otherwise would have been impossible for me – reaching every valve. How many attempts it took for me to eventually reach the isolator valve shall remain between my instructor and me.

 

The White’s Fusion suits are not so well known here in the UK. It won’t be long before they are: words such as flexible, maneuverable, comfortable, lightweight and sleek are not commonly associated with drysuits. Even the word dry is pushing it at times! Nonetheless, I use every one of these words when describing my suit to divers. As I travelled throughout the UK the reaction of other divers to my Fusion suits was continuously positive. People were intrigued by them, and when you are the only diver who is still dry by the end of a dive, you instantly win the “who’s got the best drysuit” game.