I just got back from snorkeling with humpback whales and white-beaked dolphins. I could die and go to heaven, and it would suck. Totally suck, after what I did today. John Olivero took me, Frank and Séverine out in Ocean Quest´s rib, fully suited up in wetsuits or drysuit – ready for a close up with the whales of Newfoundland. We would watch them to see which direction they swam, and then John would let us three slip into the water to slowly approach them.

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At one point, one of the humpback whales was straight ahead of me and dived down. I, of course, was twisting and turning around to see where he went so I could follow him. No sight of him. I looked up and scanned the horizon. No whale. Then! I faced downward again – and the whale is right below me! On its back, just floating away like it had no care in the world. We swam together about 15 meters before he took off… If you ask me how far apart we were or how big it was, I have no idea. I was too terrified to even think about it. It´s the weirdest feeling I have ever had. Intensely happy and at the same time so scared I could easily soil myself. But I truly enjoyed it. Honest. And after some serious soul searching I consider it a very natural reaction to animals that are bigger than me.

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Photograph: Séverine Bär

At the end of our snorkeling tour we decided to try our luck with the dolphins. At the surface you could see 3-4 dolphins swimming and jumping out of the water, occasionally racing our rib. But once we got out of the rib and could see clearly, we realized it was at least 15 of them! They are magical creatures. So curious that they swam straight towards us, and then turned just a millisecond before they touched us. They were swirling all around, and I couldn´t do anything but laugh. The dolphins radiate happiness and playfulness like no other creature, and it hits you right in the heart. I beg you; never, ever turn down a chance to snorkel with these animals.

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Photograph: Séverine Bär

But this was just the end of my day. Earlier I had been diving on the beautiful wreck of S. S. Saganaga. Saganaga has a population of 2 male lumpfish, and for those of you who don´t know what lumpfish are. They are awesome. Really bad swimmers, ugly looks, beautiful colours and suction pads. Need I say more?

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Lumpfish!

In Newfoundland they have 4 shipwrecks just outside Bell Island, all sunk on two different occasions during the second World War (WWII). The ships were an easy hit for the Germans. They were loading iron ore from the mines on Bell Island, and were stone heavy. Ironically, the Germans had received iron ore from the same location before the war – and so they knew exactly where to hit. Saganaga was so full of ore that it took her only 90 seconds to sink. 90 seconds! And her load also made the ship itself crash down on its keel. Actually, all the ships stand on their keels – which is pretty neat from a diver´s point of view. Rick & Debbie Stanley and their Ocean Quest had even more interesting history to discover. On one of their expeditions they discovered a plane from WWII. It turned out this plane was on anti-submarine duty in the area where the ships sunk. However, on the day where the Germans attacked and sunk 2 of the ships – the plane was hired by the Department of Transportation to deliver pay rolls, so it wasn´t there to protect the ships. Who knows if it made a differnece, but it is no doubt interesting to play with the thought. And, if there is one thing I have learned after working with maritime archaeologists; knowing the history of things makes the sites come alive – and in that way, Newfoundland is very exciting.

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The gun turret on S.S. Saganaga

After a taste of Newfoundlands shipwreck history, I wanted to learn more about their cultural heritage. Like Norway, Newfoundland had long been in the whaling industry, and to learn more about this, John Olivero at Ocean Quest took me to Dildo (yes, it is actually a place).

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Outside the wharf at Dildo, there is a whale ”graveyard”. The fishermen used the place to butcher the whales after harvesting them, and the place is still full of their remains. There is no other word to describe the dive but serene. Seeing vertebrae as big as your torso does something to you.

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In Conception Bay Harbour – you can find another proof of the sadder part of Newfoundland history. After whaling was forbidden in the 1960´s, some of the companies could not afford sending their ships home. So, they abandoned the ships and left them in the harbours where they today remain a symbol of the past.

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After a week of magnificent diving, it was time to get screeched in. This is a ceremony where outsiders become honorary Newfoundlanders. Earlier this day Rick & Debbie took me and 4 of their friends out whale watching and fishing – and with the cod we caught they organized a delicious  meal for all of us. After dinner, there were 3 of us who was about to go through the mysterious ceremony. All I can say is it involved a bat, screech rum, cod´s tongue and kissing fish. The rest you will have to experience yourself!

Once again I have to leave a fantastic place. Rick, Debbie, their daughter Jill and everybody who made my stay unforgettable – you have my everlasting gratitude!

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