My quest to discover the treasures of UK diving continued during the first week of July. I took a trip to the far north of Scotland to dive Scapa Flow in Orkney – a wreck divers haven and considered one of, if not the, best dive site in the UK. As a Scot I decided it was about time I saw Scapa for myself and I spent an unforgettable week with the bubbly team at Scapa Scuba, pun intended.
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Scapa Flow is a natural harbor nestled amongst the Orkney Islands. It has been used since Viking times and is best known for its use in the world wars. Many wrecks are scattered between the islands and some still jut out above the waterline. These serve as ominous reminders of the extraordinary events witnessed by both locals and the armed forces during wartime. The main wrecks within Scapa Flow are not actually consequences of battle. They are in-fact the consequences of the biggest ever act of naval suicide.
By June 1919 the German High Seas fleet, consisting of 74 ships, had been interimed within the Flow for 10 months. In a calculated act intended to prevent the fleet falling into the hands of the British, Rear Admiral von Reuter gave the order to begin scuttling the ships. He took his chance as the British forces were out of the Flow on exercise.
Today only 7 of the 74 wrecks remain, the majority of them have been salvaged for prized scrap metal. These 7 wrecks lie between approximately 16m and 45m; making them perfect for recreational and more technical minded divers alike. Indeed during my week in Orkney I met an array of divers from try-divers, sport divers, rebreather divers and technical divers. I have never dived anywhere that can boast such an eclectic mix of divers. It certainly makes for many interesting conversations whilst in one of Stromness’ pubs.
My week of diving started off with the crucial “get to know your drysuit” dive. As the wrecks lie in deep water, and as conditions can pick up out in the Flow, you must be confident to leap off the boat knowing your abilities. After a gloriously sunny day spent shore diving in the safe hands of Stef, and his Divemaster intern Cameron, I was all set to dive into the Flow the following day.
In all I did three days diving out in the Flow, managing to visit 6 of the 7 wrecks. Kevin, the cheery skipper of the Sharon Rose, allowed me onto his boat. As such I had fantastic days discovering what I know must only be a small fraction of what the Flow has to offer. An excuse to head back for sure! Kevin has installed an extremely convenient lift on his boat, evading the need for a hefty clamber up a ladder post dive.
I cannot commend my guide Karolina enough. As a new 19 year old Divemaster she conveyed an infectious enthusiasm for the Flow and its history. She guided me around the massive wrecks with ease and pointed out the afore mentioned points of interest. It is incredible to dive these wrecks and let your imagination conjure up in what it must have been like to witness this colossal event back in 1919. As a more scientifically minded diver I did wonder how much I would enjoy a week of wreck diving, however, I have realised how fulfilling it can be when you know story behind the ship.
I was impressed by the life on some of the wrecks. Many are carpeted in anemones of various sizes and colours, whilst large starfish are sprinkled over, under and around the bottom of the wrecks. The cuckoo wrasse were rather endearing too – obviously accustomed to the visits of divers they would often accompany me round the wrecks. Perhaps it was wishful thinking on their part of a tasty treat. I must have disappointed them as their efforts were in vain.
The team at Scapa Scuba are a great bunch, with Sara at the helm they are all enthusiastic to show divers what great experiences Orkney has to offer. They definitely made my week in Orkney a lot of fun, and Karolina’s lemon infused whatever it was spirit – shipped all the way from her native Poland – certainly made for one good night. Stromness, where Scapa Scuba is based, has a delightful charm to it. You can feel at home very quickly. After a day I found myself waving to people I had met as I wandered along the street. By the end of my week I certainly had a taste for Orkney and it’s offerings both on and off land. I am sure I will be back – Scapa Flow definitely requires a few trips….
